Friday, September 28, 2018

Alaska Trip - Whittier & Portage Glacier

 July 13, 2018
Driving north 20 miles from Seward, we stopped in Moose Pass for breakfast at Trail Lake Lodge.  Across the road from the Lodge is an old water wheel with the sign, “Moose Pass is a peaceful little town.  If you have an axe to grind DO IT HERE.”  There’s a working lathe run by the waterwheel for your grinding needs.
downtown Whittier
It was a gray, cold, blustery day with intermittent sprinkles.  We were headed north to Anchorage and from there, east to begin our circuitous way back to Canada and then Michigan. Twenty miles north of our breakfast stop, we turned off Seward Highway for Portage Glacier and Whittier. We thought we’d visit the glacier first, and, if we felt we had time, we’d drive the 10 miles more to Whittier. However, with a little confusion over road construction signs, we took a left fork instead of a right, and there we were in the line going through the tunnel to Whittier.  I guess that inked our decision.
Whittier condo building
Downtown Whittier
The tunnel one must drive through to get to Whittier was originally a train tunnel. The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel was built in 1941-43 as part of the effort to safeguard the flow of military supplies from the port of Whittier. Until 2000, the only way to get to Whittier was by train. Trains still run through the tunnel on a regular basis, but because of upgrades to the tunnel’s road surface, cars can use it, too, one direction at a time, straddling the tracks, when no trains are scheduled. Vehicles line up in the staging areas and wait for the computerized system to give the go-ahead to each direction of traffic. It takes about 6 minutes to drive through the tunnel at 25 m.p.h.
Whittier, set on the edge of Prince William Sound, closed in by mountains, is a small village of a couple hundred people, most of whom live in one of two condo buildings.  There are no houses. There is a busy harbor on the Sound for cruise ships, the Alaska State Ferry System ferries, fishing boats, charter boats, and boats off-loading to the train. And there are parking lots for all the cars belonging to people on the ferry and other boats.  There are a few businesses crammed along the waterfront – a restaurant, a small hotel and gift shops and there are a few fish processing buildings. It was very much a place for coming and going, not staying.
So, we took a few photos, got fuel for the Siesta, let Nina run around on a grassy area and then we got back in line to go through the tunnel the other way.
Glacier ice
This time we stopped at the Visitor Center near Portage Glacier.  The US Forest Service operates the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center. Portage Lake sits behind the building.  Across the lake is Portage Glacier which, a woman sitting at the viewing window told me, reached down from the mountain to the edge of the lake 20 years ago when she had last visited.  Now the glacier only stretches a short way down the mountain cut. A chunk of glacier ice was floating in the lake. 







Visitor Center



Nearby Byron Glacier





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